Vogue AI Ad Controversy: Beyond the Fashion World

The Rise of AI Models in Fashion

Sarah Murray remembers her initial encounter with an AI-generated model within the fashion world. This occurred in 2023, when a striking young woman of color was depicted wearing a Levi’s denim overall dress.

Murray, a working commercial model, expressed feelings of sadness and weariness upon witnessing this.

Levi’s and Lalaland.ai’s Collaboration

The renowned denim brand, Levi’s, had partnered with the AI studio Lalaland.ai. Their goal was to develop diverse digital fashion models for more inclusive advertising campaigns.

However, the industry’s longstanding struggles with employing diverse human models led to a rapid and critical response, with New York Magazine labeling the initiative as “artificial diversity.”

Concerns About Competition

“The modeling profession is already incredibly demanding,” Murray explained to TechCrunch. “Now, we face competition from new digital ideals of perfection, achievable through AI.”

Her initial concerns have since intensified as brands continue to explore the use of AI-generated models, causing unease among fashion enthusiasts.

Vogue’s July Edition and the Guess Ad

The latest controversy erupted following the publication of Vogue’s July issue. A Guess advertisement featured a model embodying conventional North American beauty standards – slender yet curvaceous, with flowing blonde hair and full lips.

The surprising element? This model was entirely AI-generated.

The internet engaged in extensive discussion, largely due to the appearance of this AI-created image in Vogue, a publication considered the authority on fashion trends.

It’s important to note that the AI model was used in an advertisement, and not within a Vogue editorial spread. Vogue confirmed to TechCrunch that the ad adhered to their advertising guidelines.

The Ad Versus Editorial Debate

For many observers, the distinction between an advertisement and an editorial feels insignificant.

TechCrunch consulted with fashion models, industry experts, and technologists to assess the future trajectory of the fashion industry, now seemingly endorsed by Vogue’s acceptance of this technology.

The Impact of AI on Creative Industries

The Guess ad situation underscores broader questions emerging within creative fields impacted by AI. When AI can produce high-quality work at a significantly reduced time and cost, what role remains for human creatives?

Specifically within fashion, what will become of the individuals – models, photographers, stylists, and set designers – currently employed in these roles?

These questions are becoming increasingly urgent as AI’s influence expands.

The Economic Drive Behind AI Modeling

Sinead Bovell, a model and the founder of WAYE, shared with TechCrunch her perspective on the impact of automation, noting that e-commerce models are particularly vulnerable. She previously explored the topic of CGI models for Vogue several years ago.

These models are primarily utilized for showcasing clothing and accessories to online consumers through advertisements. Unlike high-fashion models, who often present more aspirational and distinctive appearances in editorials and runway shows, e-commerce models typically project a more accessible and relatable image.

Bovell emphasized that e-commerce work represents the primary source of income for many models. While it may not lead to widespread fame or prestige, it provides crucial financial stability.

The increasing pressure on brands to automate photo shoots directly conflicts with this reality. Paul Mouginot, an art technologist with experience in the luxury sector, explained that employing live models is a significant expense, particularly when numerous outfits, shoes, and accessories need to be photographed.

He stated that AI technology now enables the creation of realistic images by starting with a flat-lay product shot, placing it on a virtual model, and integrating the model into a believable environment. The resulting images closely resemble authentic fashion photography.

Mouginot pointed out that brands have been exploring similar techniques for some time. He cited Veepee, a French retailer, as an early adopter of virtual mannequins, utilizing them for clothing sales as early as 2013. Other prominent brands, including H&M, Mango, and Calvin Klein, have also begun incorporating AI models into their marketing strategies.

Amy Odell, a fashion writer and biographer of Gwyneth Paltrow, succinctly summarized the situation: “The reduced cost of utilizing AI models is a major factor for brands.” The demand for a high volume of content, coupled with budgetary constraints, makes AI an attractive option.

PJ Pereira, co-founder of Silverside AI, highlighted the importance of scalability. He noted that discussions with fashion brands consistently revolve around the shift from producing a few key content pieces annually to needing hundreds or even hundreds of thousands for social media and e-commerce. This increased demand is financially unsustainable for many brands, especially smaller ones.

“Simply refining existing processes isn’t sufficient to achieve this level of scale,” Pereira added. “A completely new system is required.” He believes that concerns about displacing artists and models, while understandable, don’t fully reflect the underlying drivers of this change.

The Rise of AI Avatars and its Impact on Models

Commercial model Murray acknowledges the potential economic advantages of utilizing AI models, but expresses reservations about their widespread adoption.

She voiced her concern regarding statements from brands like Levi’s, which suggest AI is intended to augment, rather than replace, human models.

“Were those companies to experience the reality of open casting calls, they would recognize the sheer number of models – myself included – eager for opportunities with their brands,” she stated. “The need for artificial supplementation would simply not exist.”

Murray believes this trend will disproportionately affect “non-traditional” models, particularly those representing diverse backgrounds, mirroring the core issue with the Levi’s advertisement.

Instead of engaging diverse talent directly, the ad artificially created it.

According to Bovell, this practice constitutes “robot cultural appropriation,” where brands fabricate identities, especially diverse ones, for marketing purposes, even when the technology’s creators lack that same background.

While Pereira contends that photographing every garment on every model type is impractical, these concerns among diverse models regarding the future remain unaddressed.

“We are increasingly encountering contract clauses that raise concerns about potentially relinquishing our rights, allowing brands to utilize our likenesses for training future AI systems,” Murray explained.

Some view the creation of model likenesses as a progressive step in the age of AI. Sara Ziff, a former model and founder of the Model Alliance, is advocating for the Fashion Workers Act.

This proposed legislation would mandate explicit consent and fair compensation for the use of a model’s digital representation.

Mouginot suggests this could enable models to participate in multiple shoots concurrently and potentially increase their earnings.

However, he also points out that each avatar employed signifies a reduction in human employment. “Benefits for a select few could translate to diminished opportunities for many others.”

Bovell asserts that the standard for models is now elevated, requiring them to distinguish themselves from both the conventional and the digitally replicated.

She recommends that models leverage their platforms to cultivate personal brands, establish unique identities, and explore alternative income streams such as podcasting or brand partnerships.

“It’s crucial to proactively share your authentic human narrative,” she emphasized. “AI is incapable of replicating a genuinely unique human experience.”

This entrepreneurial approach is becoming increasingly vital across various sectors – including journalism and software development – as AI fosters an environment where continuous learning and self-direction are paramount.

The Debate Surrounding AI-Generated Imagery

Mouginot envisions a future where certain platforms may cease utilizing human models entirely. However, he also posits that individuals inherently value the “tangible reality of objects,” alongside a preference for “slight imperfections and genuine human connection.”

He explained that many groundbreaking models achieve success due to a unique characteristic – perhaps their teeth, gaze, or attitude – which, while not strictly perfect, is remarkably appealing. Replicating these subtle nuances within digital code proves challenging.

Artcare, a startup and creative studio, is positioned to excel in this evolving landscape, according to Sandrine Decorde, its CEO and co-founder. She describes her team as “AI artisans,” skilled professionals who leverage tools like Flux from Black Forest Labs to refine AI-generated models, imbuing them with a touch of authentic humanity.

A significant portion of Decorde’s firm’s current work centers on creating AI-generated infants and children for various brands. The employment of minors within the fashion industry has historically presented ethical concerns, often involving exploitation and abuse. Decorde contends that utilizing generative AI in children’s fashion is a sensible approach, especially given the substantial market demand.

“The process requires precision, much like sewing,” she conveyed to TechCrunch, referencing the creation of AI-generated models. “The more effort invested in datasets and image enhancements, the superior and more consistent the resulting models become.”

A key aspect of their work involves developing a comprehensive library of distinctive features. Decorde observed that many AI-generated models – including those produced by Seraphinne Vallora, the agency responsible for Vogue’s Guess advertisement – tend to lack diversity. Their lips are often excessively perfect and symmetrical, and their jawlines exhibit uniformity.

“Visuals must be impactful,” Decorde stated, highlighting that many fashion brands prefer exclusive collaborations with specific models, a preference now extending to AI-generated representations. “A model serves as the embodiment of a fashion brand’s identity.”

Pereira further emphasized that his firm actively addresses homogeneity in AI “through deliberate effort.” He cautioned that as more content is created by individuals lacking this intentionality, the resulting output will reinforce existing biases within computer models.

“Similar to casting a diverse range of models, it’s crucial to specifically request that diversity in prompts,” he explained. “Models must be trained using a broad spectrum of appearances. Otherwise, the AI will simply mirror the biases inherent in its training data.”

The Future of AI in Fashion: Promise and Uncertainty

The application of artificial intelligence modeling within the fashion industry remains largely experimental, according to Claudia Wagner, the founder of the modeling booking platform Ubooker, in a discussion with TechCrunch. She and her team observed the Guess advertisement and characterized it as technically interesting, yet lacking in novelty or significant impact.

Initial Reactions and the Search for Purpose

Wagner suggested the advertisement represents another instance of a brand leveraging AI to participate in the current discourse. Currently, the industry is engaged in a period of exploration, assessing the potential contributions of AI. However, genuine value will only materialize when AI is deployed with a clear objective, rather than solely for increased visibility.

Visibility vs. Engagement: A TikTok Case Study

Brands are demonstrably gaining visibility through the utilization of AI, with the Guess ad serving as a recent illustration. Pereira reported that his company recently conducted a test involving a completely AI-generated product video on TikTok, which garnered over a million views, accompanied by predominantly negative feedback.

Despite the negative commentary, a substantial, largely silent majority – representing approximately twenty times the level of engagement – outweighed the criticism. The click-through rate exceeded the number of complaints by a factor of thirty, and the product experienced a notable surge in sales.

The Integration of AI into Creative Processes

Pereira, echoing Wagner’s sentiment, believes that AI models are unlikely to disappear. Instead, the integration of AI tools into the standard creative workflow is anticipated.

Different brands are adopting varied approaches. Some are comfortable utilizing entirely artificial models, while others prefer to begin with real individuals and then secure licenses for their likenesses to create synthetic photo shoots. Conversely, some brands are choosing to abstain from AI altogether, concerned about potential negative reception from their target audiences.

The Enduring Importance of Human Talent

Wagner emphasized the continuing importance of human talent, particularly when authenticity and brand identity are paramount. This is especially pertinent for luxury heritage brands, which typically exhibit a cautious approach to adopting new technologies.

Cautious Adoption and Policy Development

Decorde observed that numerous high-fashion brands are discreetly experimenting with AI. However, Mouginot indicated that many are still in the process of formulating their AI policies and are currently avoiding the use of entirely AI-generated individuals. This context explains the surprising nature of Vogue’s decision to feature an AI model.

Vogue's Experiment and Public Response

Bovell speculated that the advertisement might have been Vogue’s attempt to gauge public reaction to the integration of high fashion and AI.

The initial response has been largely unfavorable, and it remains uncertain whether the magazine anticipates successfully navigating the ensuing backlash.

The Power of Vogue's Endorsement

Odell highlighted the influence of Vogue, stating that if the magazine continues to include AI models in its editorials, it could normalize their use. This parallels the industry’s initial resistance to Kim Kardashian, followed by acceptance after her inclusion in Vogue.