Modern Synthesis: Lifetime Compostable Materials

A New Approach to Bio-Based Materials
Jen Keane initially gained recognition for cultivating a shoe utilizing bacteria, guiding the microorganisms to deposit nanocellulose in the form of a sneaker. However, she now believes this achievement overshadows the core innovation.
“I believe focusing solely on the shoe overlooks the fundamental aspect,” Keane explained to TechCrunch. “The production of fiber by bacteria isn’t a novel concept.”
From Direct Growth to Material Creation
While her new venture, Modern Synthesis, still employs bacterial-grown nanocellulose fibers, it adopts a different strategy, aligning more closely with conventional fabric manufacturing and application methods.
Modern Synthesis cultivates nanocellulose fibers using bacteria, then harvests and refines them into diverse materials. This process resembles transforming cotton into denim for jeans, unlike the earlier sneaker experiment which was akin to prompting a cotton plant to directly form a pair of pants. While intriguing, the latter approach presents scalability challenges.
Unique Material Properties
The fibers developed by Modern Synthesis possess manipulation capabilities beyond those of standard plant fibers. According to Keane, the CEO of Modern Synthesis, they can be formed into a thin, windproof film or textured to replicate the feel of premium leather.
In this regard, these materials share similarities with synthetic alternatives like polyester and polyurethane.
Biodegradability is a key distinction, however. Modern Synthesis’ nanocellulose materials are designed to be fully biodegradable.
Longevity and Decomposition
“The goal is for these materials to endure for a lifetime, perhaps two – around 100 years,” Keane stated. “We don’t want them persisting for millennia, as many synthetic materials do.”
Upon decomposition, the resulting substance is comparable to organic matter found on a forest floor, as the foundational element of the textiles is cellulose. “Its behavior should mirror other cellulosic materials,” she added, citing cotton as a prime example.
Key Breakthroughs and Material Purity
A significant advancement that motivated Keane and Ben Reeve, the company’s chief technology officer, to establish Modern Synthesis was the ability to create materials solely from nanocellulose.
While other biomaterials can imitate leather, some require the addition of synthetic components for successful production.
Sourcing and Applications
Modern Synthesis acquires its nanocellulose from established producers who already manufacture it on a large scale for various applications, including food additives and medical implants.
The startup then processes this nanocellulose to create a range of different materials. In 2023, they produced an artificial leather for Danish fashion brand Ganni, used in a handbag free of petrochemicals.
Expansion and Funding
Keane reported that the company is working to increase production fivefold at its pilot facility.
Modern Synthesis recently secured $5.5 million in funding, as exclusively revealed to TechCrunch. Extantia Capital led the round, with participation from Artesian and Collaborative Fund.
Future Possibilities
While applications in sneakers, apparel, and handbags are anticipated, Keane is also exploring more advanced uses, such as smart textiles with integrated electronics, and more conventional applications like car dashboards.
“Unlike synthetics, cellulosic materials do not melt,” she explained. “Consider car dashboards that deform in prolonged sunlight – our materials will not exhibit this behavior.”
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